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Writer's pictureThe Sicilian Wanderer

What to Eat in Messina and Surroundings: Complete Guide to Local Flavors


Messina, a vibrant city in Sicily, is a haven for food lovers. Its culinary scene is rich with unique flavors and traditional dishes that reflect the region's diverse cultural influences. Here are some must-try specialties that you absolutely have to taste:




🥟 The Pidone Messinese

The Pidone Messinese is a beloved piece of tavola calda. It has the shape of a half-moon and resembles the more famous calzone. It is prepared both baked and fried, with various fillings: escarole, tuma (a typical Sicilian cheese), and anchovies or ham and cheese, among others. The crispy exterior gives way to a warm, savory filling that perfectly captures the essence of Messina's street food culture.


Pidone Messinese Recipe

Ingredients


For the Dough:

  • 4 cups (500g) all-purpose flour

  • 1 cup (240ml) warm water

  • 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil

  • 1 teaspoon salt

  • 1 teaspoon sugar

  • 1 packet (7g) active dry yeast


For the Filling:

  • 1 cup escarole, chopped

  • 1/2 cup tuma cheese or mozzarella, cubed

  • 6 anchovy fillets, chopped

  • 1/2 cup cooked ham, diced (optional)

  • 1/2 cup tomatoes, diced (optional)

  • Salt and pepper to taste

  • Olive oil for brushing


Instructions

  1. Prepare the Dough:

  • In a small bowl, dissolve the sugar in warm water and add the yeast. Let it sit for about 5-10 minutes until it becomes frothy.

  • In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour and salt. Make a well in the center and add the yeast mixture and olive oil.

  • Mix the ingredients until a dough forms. Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface for about 10 minutes until smooth and elastic.

  • Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a damp cloth, and let it rise in a warm place for about 1-2 hours, or until it has doubled in size.

  1. Prepare the Filling:

  • While the dough is rising, prepare the filling. In a large bowl, combine the escarole, tuma cheese (or mozzarella), anchovy fillets, and any optional ingredients like ham or tomatoes.

  • Season with salt and pepper to taste and mix well.

  1. Assemble the Pidoni:

  • Preheat your oven to 400°F (200°C) or heat oil in a deep fryer if you prefer them fried.

  • Punch down the risen dough and divide it into small balls (about the size of a small orange).

  • Roll each ball into a circle about 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter on a lightly floured surface.

  • Place a generous amount of filling on one half of the dough circle, leaving a border around the edge.

  • Fold the dough over to form a half-moon shape and seal the edges by pressing them together with a fork.

  • If baking, place the pidoni on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush the tops with olive oil. If frying, carefully place the pidoni in the hot oil and fry until golden brown, turning once.

  1. Bake or Fry:

  • Bake in the preheated oven for about 20-25 minutes, or until golden brown and crispy.

  • If frying, cook for about 3-4 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels.

  1. Serve:

  • Allow the pidoni to cool slightly before serving. They are best enjoyed warm but can also be served at room temperature.

 

🍞 The Messina Focaccia

The Messina Focaccia is characterized by its very thick dough, exceeding even 3 cm in height. It has a rectangular shape and is filled with tuma, escarole, tomato pieces, and anchovies. The traditional ingredients of the focaccia are thus the same as those in the pidone, and like the latter, you can find it in the city's rotisseries and bakeries. This dish has been popular in the Messina area since the second half of the 20th century.


The Messina Focaccia Recipe

Ingredients

For the Dough:

  • 4 cups (500g) all-purpose flour

  • 1 1/2 cups (360ml) warm water

  • 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil

  • 1 teaspoon salt

  • 1 teaspoon sugar

  • 1 packet (7g) active dry yeast

For the Topping:

  • 1 cup tuma cheese or mozzarella, cubed

  • 2 cups escarole, chopped

  • 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

  • 6 anchovy fillets, chopped

  • 1/4 cup olive oil

  • Salt and pepper to taste

  • Oregano to taste

Instructions

  1. Prepare the Dough:

  • In a small bowl, dissolve the sugar in warm water and add the yeast. Let it sit for about 5-10 minutes until it becomes frothy.

  • In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour and salt. Make a well in the center and add the yeast mixture and olive oil.

  • Mix the ingredients until a dough forms. Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface for about 10 minutes until smooth and elastic.

  • Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a damp cloth, and let it rise in a warm place for about 1-2 hours, or until it has doubled in size.

  1. Prepare the Topping:

  • While the dough is rising, prepare the topping ingredients. Chop the escarole and set aside.

  • Cut the tuma cheese (or mozzarella) into small cubes. Halve the cherry tomatoes. Chop the anchovy fillets.

  1. Assemble the Focaccia:

  • Preheat your oven to 400°F (200°C).

  • Punch down the risen dough and place it on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Stretch and press the dough to form a rectangle about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick.

  • Drizzle the surface of the dough with olive oil and use your fingers to create dimples all over the dough.

  • Evenly distribute the chopped escarole, tuma cheese, cherry tomatoes, and anchovies over the dough.

  • Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and oregano to taste.

  1. Bake the Focaccia:

  • Place the focaccia in the preheated oven and bake for about 25-30 minutes, or until the dough is golden brown and the cheese is melted and bubbly.

  1. Serve:

  • Allow the focaccia to cool slightly before cutting into squares. Serve warm or at room temperature.

 

🍝 First Courses

Exploring pasta dishes in Messina and its surroundings often means pairing them with fish:

  • Spaghetti with Anchovies and Breadcrumbs: A classic dish where anchovies add a rich, salty flavor, balanced by the crunchy texture of toasted breadcrumbs.

  • Penne with Swordfish and Mint: Swordfish, caught right in the Strait of Messina, is combined with mint for a refreshing and aromatic pasta dish.



Spaghetti with Anchovies and Breadcrumbs Recipe

Ingredients

  • 400g (14 oz) spaghetti

  • 6-8 anchovy fillets packed in oil, drained and chopped

  • 1/2 cup breadcrumbs

  • 4 tablespoons olive oil

  • 2 cloves garlic, minced

  • 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

  • 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped

  • Zest of 1 lemon

  • Salt and pepper to taste


Instructions

  1. Cook the Pasta:

  • Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook according to the package instructions until al dente. Reserve about 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta.

  1. Toast the Breadcrumbs:

  • While the pasta is cooking, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.

  • Add the breadcrumbs and cook, stirring frequently, until they are golden brown and crispy. This should take about 3-5 minutes.

  • Transfer the toasted breadcrumbs to a plate and set aside.

  1. Prepare the Sauce:

  • In the same skillet, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat.

  • Add the minced garlic and red pepper flakes (if using) and cook for about 1 minute until fragrant.

  • Add the chopped anchovy fillets to the skillet and cook, stirring, until the anchovies dissolve into the oil and garlic mixture.

  1. Combine Ingredients:

  • Add the cooked spaghetti to the skillet and toss to coat in the anchovy and garlic mixture. If the pasta seems dry, add a little of the reserved pasta cooking water to loosen it up.

  • Stir in the chopped parsley and lemon zest, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

  1. Serve:

  • Divide the pasta among serving plates.

  • Sprinkle the toasted breadcrumbs over each serving for a crunchy finish.

  • Serve immediately and enjoy your Spaghetti with Anchovies and Breadcrumbs, a simple yet flavorful dish that captures the essence of Messina's coastal cuisine.



Penne with Swordfish and Mint Recipe

Ingredients

  • 400g (14 oz) penne pasta

  • 300g (10.5 oz) swordfish fillet, cut into cubes

  • 3 tablespoons olive oil

  • 2 cloves garlic, minced

  • 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

  • 1/4 cup dry white wine

  • 2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves, chopped

  • Salt and pepper to taste

  • Lemon zest for garnish (optional)


Instructions

  1. Cook the Pasta:

  • Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the penne and cook according to the package instructions until al dente. Drain and set aside.

  1. Prepare the Swordfish:

  • While the pasta is cooking, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.

  • Add the cubed swordfish to the skillet and season with salt and pepper. Cook for about 2-3 minutes on each side until the swordfish is opaque and cooked through. Remove the swordfish from the skillet and set aside.

  1. Cook the Sauce:

  • In the same skillet, add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Add the minced garlic and cook for about 1 minute until fragrant.

  • Add the cherry tomatoes and cook for about 3-4 minutes until they start to soften.

  • Pour in the white wine and let it simmer for a couple of minutes until it reduces slightly.

  1. Combine Ingredients:

  • Return the cooked swordfish to the skillet and stir gently to combine with the tomatoes and garlic.

  • Add the cooked penne to the skillet and toss everything together until the pasta is well coated with the sauce.

  • Stir in the chopped mint leaves and season with additional salt and pepper if needed.

  1. Serve:

  • Divide the pasta among serving plates and garnish with lemon zest if desired.

  • Serve immediately and enjoy your Penne with Swordfish and Mint, a fresh and flavorful dish inspired by Messina's coastal cuisine.

 

🐟 Fish Dishes

Fish is a staple in Messina's cuisine, and it would be a crime to miss it. Some of the most typical dishes include:

  • Swordfish Rolls: Thin slices of swordfish rolled with a filling of breadcrumbs, capers, and olives, then grilled to perfection.

  • Pesce Stocco alla Ghiotta: Salted cod cooked with tomatoes, olives, and capers, creating a flavorful and hearty stew.

  • Messinese Spatula: Silver scabbardfish prepared in a Messina style, often grilled or baked.

  • Baccalà Meatballs: Cod meatballs mixed with herbs and spices, then fried or baked.

  • Pepata di Cozze: Mussels cooked with black pepper, garlic, and white wine, a simple yet delicious dish.



Messinese Spatula Recipe

Ingredients

  • 1.2 kg silver scabbardfish (spatula), filleted

  • 300g Pachino cherry tomatoes

  • 1 garlic clove

  • 1 onion

  • 2 tablespoons salted capers

  • 1 bunch of parsley

  • 1 celery stalk

  • 10 green olives

  • 1/2 cup dry white wine

  • Extra virgin olive oil

  • Salt to taste

  • Red pepper flakes to taste


Instructions

  1. Prepare the Ingredients:

  • Rinse the silver scabbardfish fillets and pat them dry.

  • Halve the cherry tomatoes.

  • Finely chop the garlic, onion, celery, and parsley.

  • Rinse the capers to remove excess salt.

  • Slice the green olives.

  1. Sauté the Vegetables:

  • In a large skillet, heat a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil over medium heat.

  • Add the chopped onion, garlic, and celery to the skillet. Sauté until the onion is translucent and fragrant.

  1. Add the Fish and Wine:

  • Add the silver scabbardfish fillets to the skillet. Cook for about 2-3 minutes on each side until they start to turn opaque.

  • Pour in the white wine and let it simmer for a couple of minutes until the alcohol evaporates.

  1. Add the Tomatoes and Olives:

  • Add the halved cherry tomatoes, capers, and green olives to the skillet. Stir gently to combine all the ingredients.

  • Season with salt and red pepper flakes to taste.

  1. Simmer:

  • Lower the heat and cover the skillet. Let the mixture simmer for about 10-15 minutes, or until the fish is fully cooked and the tomatoes have softened to create a sauce.

  1. Finish with Parsley:

  • Sprinkle the chopped parsley over the dish just before serving.

  1. Serve:

  • Serve the Messinese Spatula hot, accompanied by crusty bread or a side of your choice.

 

🍰 The Pignolata Messinese

The Pignolata Messinese is a dessert covered with two different glazes: one chocolate and one lemon. Traditionally consumed in Messina and Reggio Calabria, it gets its name because the pieces of dough, when finished, resemble pine cones. Originally, it was covered in honey, a tradition brought by the Arabs. The change to lemon and chocolate glazes came with the Spanish domination around the 1500s, when Spanish aristocrats deemed the honey glaze too "plebeian" and requested the use of lemon and cocoa, the latter being imported from their colonies in America.


Pignolata Messinese Recipe

Pignolata Messinese is a traditional Sicilian dessert from the city of Messina, typically enjoyed during the Carnival season. It consists of small, fried dough balls covered in two types of glaze: chocolate and lemon.

Ingredients

For the Dough:

  • 750g all-purpose flour

  • 12 egg yolks

  • 100ml pure alcohol for sweets (or a strong liqueur)

  • Grated zest of 1 lemon

  • 1 pinch of salt

  • Lard or vegetable oil for frying

For the Chocolate Glaze:

  • 200g icing sugar

  • 200g bitter cocoa powder

  • 170ml water

  • 125g butter

  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the Lemon Glaze:

  • 300g icing sugar

  • Juice of 3 lemons

  • 3 egg whites


Instructions

  1. Prepare the Dough:

  • In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks with the alcohol until well combined.

  • Gradually add the sifted flour, lemon zest, and salt, mixing until a firm, homogeneous dough forms.

  • Roll the dough into long ropes about 1 cm thick, then cut into small pieces about the size of gnocchi.

  • Let the dough pieces rest while you prepare the glazes.

  1. Prepare the Chocolate Glaze:

  • In a saucepan over low heat, melt the butter.

  • Gradually add the icing sugar, vanilla extract, and cocoa powder, mixing continuously.

  • Slowly add water until the glaze reaches a thick, smooth consistency. Allow it to cool.

  1. Prepare the Lemon Glaze:

  • In another saucepan, heat the icing sugar until it starts to melt.

  • Remove from heat and slowly mix in the beaten egg whites and lemon juice until a smooth, thick glaze forms.

  1. Fry the Dough:

  • Heat lard or vegetable oil in a deep pan to about 175°C (350°F).

  • Fry the dough pieces in batches until they are golden brown, about 1-2 minutes per batch.

  • Transfer the fried dough balls to paper towels to drain excess oil.

  1. Glaze the Dough:

  • Divide the fried dough balls into two equal portions.

  • Toss one portion in the chocolate glaze and the other in the lemon glaze.

  • Arrange the glazed dough balls on a serving platter in a mound or side by side, forming a two-colored display.

  1. Serve:

  • Let the glazed Pignolata Messinese sit for at least an hour before serving to allow the glazes to set.

 



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